Wild, Wild Bilberries? – What is "Wild" Food All About?
Silvia Zechmann
At first thought, who doesn't expect a more natural, close-to-nature product from wild bilberries (European blueberries) than from normal bilberries? Maybe we even imagine pristine forests or meadows, where wild-growing berries are picked by hand from bushes. One certainly expects more nature in wild berries than in "cultivated bilberries". At the same time, we probably know that this can't really be true, right? So what's behind a label that designates a particular food as "wild"?
Illustrations 1–3: Cultivated Bilberries
Not only are bilberries and lowbush cranberries offered as "wild". In addition to the well-known wild salmon and wild game, which already carry the word "wild" in their names, some herbs and vegetables are also newly being labelled as "wild". One speaks of wild rosemary, lavender or marjoram, and in some supermarkets the consumers can take home freshly packaged, wild herbal salad direct from the refrigerated section. Wild broccoli from the market is considered a special delicacy, and one or the other of us may have also heard of wild potatoes.
The term wild does seem to be very popular currently. Some sources are even speaking of a new nutritional trend, in which food grown in the wild has come into focus, being referenced as "Wild Food". In fact, there are already cookbooks and recipe collections that have taken up the subject of "wild food".
But one thing is for sure: wild is not always wild and use of the word in reference to food doesn't necessarily have any legal significance. In this sense, terminology and consumer expectation can be worlds apart.
Info Box
What defines wild plants?
Botanically seen, wild plants are those that, in contrast to cultivated plants, exist and thrive freely in nature, without any influence or support from humans. This understanding of wild plants mirrors the view of many consumers. Products and fruits coming from these wild plants are accordingly referred to as "wild". Examples of this include the wild forms of lentils or different types of berries. Although the original varieties are usually more robust, farmers tend to prefer growing the cultivated varieties because the fruits look better, have a higher yield, and are less complicated to grow. This doesn't mean, however, that wild varieties aren't grown, cultivated and their fruits regularly marketed. The term "wild" does not, however, automatically refer to a specific (or even organic) method of farming.
Taking a closer look at wild berries
The varieties of berry plants considered in Germany to be wild can be found, among others, in descriptive lists of berry varieties or in publications of the Federal Bureau of Botanical Varieties . Further information is available in the German Food Code (see Info Box) under the guidelines for fruit products , as well as in the official Sales Descriptions, in which a list of berry varieties also includes whether specific berries such as lowbush cranberries, bilberries and blackberries can also be depicted as "wild". Among frozen blackberries, only the fruits of the common cultivated variety rubus fruticosus L. are expected. Any use of wild varieties must be indicated on the label of the food.
In the case of small, lowbush cranberries, which are served with baked Camembert, for example, both the cultivated and wild berries are of the same variety (vaccinium vitis-idaea L.).
Info Box
German Food Code
The German Food Code Commission compiles so-called guiding principles in which the standard market practice for over 2,000 foods is recorded for products not described in detail in legislation. They deal with issues such as the quantity of strawberries in strawberry ice cream, for example, in order to protect consumers from food fraud and to ensure transparency and clarity in the marketing of food.
There are 23 guiding principles for the following product groups, among others:
- Bread and small baked items
- Fish and fish products
- Meat and meat products
- Fruit juice and fruit nectar
- Vegetable products
- Vegetable juice and vegetable nectar
- Potato products
- Fruit products
- Ice cream
- Cooking fat and cooking oil
- Edible mushrooms and edible mushroom products
More information can be found in a brochure from the Ministry of Food and Agriculture or from the official website of the German Food Code Commission.
Much more difficult is the case of bilberries, especially of bilberries possibly grown in the wild. In Germany, the fruits of bilberry varieties with the botanical name Vaccinium myrtillus L. were originally designated as bilberries, blueberries, or forest bilberries. This variety of bilberry is mostly native to Europe. In some cases, especially with frozen products, these fruits are also referred to as wild bilberries. They were also included with this name in the new guidelines for fruit products from 2022 under the category of frozen bilberries*. However, the term "wild bilberry" or "forest bilberry" doesn't automatically mean that the fruit actually grew in the wild, without any influence from humans (see Table 1). In contrast to forest bilberries, the large-fruited, cultivated bilberries belong, botanically speaking, to the so-called cyanococcus section. Many varieties from this section come from the North American continent. They make up the largest portion of fresh bilberries sold in Germany. An important example of this is the variety Vaccinium corymbosum L.
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Plant Names
The scientific name for a plant variety consists of two parts. The first word refers to the genus to which the plant belongs, and the second word is the so-called specific epithet. Both words together encompass the variety (species).
This so-called "binary nomenclature" can be traced back to Carl Linnaeus (1753), who was the first to use it consequently. If Linnaeus was the first to identify a plant, the name of the species would often include an L. at the end (for Linneaeus), or the name of the relevant botanist.
In botanical taxonomy or nomenclature, the genus of the plant family, such as the crucifers (Brassicaceae), are superordinate. The subordinate category is the species. If there are many species, related species can be grouped into sections. The species themselves can also be further divided into subspecies.
Beyond the basic nomenclature, cultivated plants in particular can also differ according to variety (abbrev. as "var"). For example, broccoli and brussels sprouts are both types of wild cabbage classified as brassica oleracea. They differ significantly, however, and are identified with the additional description "var. italic" or "var. gemmifera".
There are also strains that occur as a result of cultivating or selection, perhaps best known among apple and potato varieties.
For fresh berries, the marketing standards are valid. In the German translation of the UNECE-Norm FFV-57 , there is only a distinction between bilberries and cultivated bilberries. The term "bilberry" is defined as the wild bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.), whereas all other species are referred to as cultivated bilberries.
The numerous new types of bilberries, mostly created through breeding, are mentioned neither in legislation nor in marketing standards. These new breeds are often hybrid polypoids (multiplication of chromosome sets) from cross-breeds of the North American species of the section Cyanococcus, such as Vaccinium corymbosum L. or Vaccinium angustifolium, in which several chromosome sets of different species are together in one plant. These plants are so equipped to achieve higher growth and larger fruits. The taller height also eases machine processing during cultivation and harvest. This is hardly the case for low-lying wild blueberry bushes, which have demanding requirements for their location and whose fruits are more sensitive and less bountiful.
In contrast to typical cultivated bilberries, the fruits of the original wild bilberry plants (Vaccinium myrtillus L.) are often smaller, but described as more intensive in taste. The most noticeable difference between the two berry types is the color of the fruit flesh. While cultivated berries often exhibit colorless flesh and the intensive blue/purple colored anthocyane is found mostly in the outer skin, the plant pigment in the flesh of the wild bilberries is also very visible (see Illustration 4).
Illustration 4: Cross-cut of a wild bilberry (left) and a cultivated bilberry (right)
Despite these differences, it's not always easy to visually distinguish between the cultivated and wild bilberries, especially if they aren't fresh. It is even more difficult when, in addition to the Vaccinium myrtillus L., Vaccinium corymbosum L. and Vaccinium angustifolium, further sub-varieties also need identification. Here we use the innovative MALDI-ToF-Mass Spectrometry, with which we can clearly identify the specific species or section . More detailed information regarding analytical determination and food fraud related to forest bilberry products can be found on our Internet site “Lebensmittelbetrug bei Waldheidelbeererzeugnissen“.
Table 1 gives an overview of pesticide contamination of organically grown bilberries compared with conventionally grown and those marketed as "wild" bilberries. The evaluated data cover the last 5 years. While the organic berries differed significantly from the conventional bilberries in terms of their residue contamination, especially regarding the quantity of residues, the difference between the conventional and wild bilberries was less so. About half of the wild bilberry samples mirrored the pesticide residue situation of the organic berries, and the other half resembled that of the conventional (not labelled as wild) bilberries.
|
Organic Bilberries
|
Conventional Bilberries
|
Wild Bilberries (included in the conventional bilberries)
|
|
|---|---|---|---|
| No. of samples (no. frozen products thereof) |
30 (6 frozen)
|
218 (34 frozen)
|
15 (14 frozen)
|
| Samples with residues over 0.01 mg/kg* |
1 (3,3%)
|
209 (96%)
|
8 (53%)
|
| Samples with residues only under 0.01 mg/kg* |
12 (40%)
|
2 (0,9%)
|
7 (47%)
|
| Samples with multiple residues |
0
|
190 (87%)
|
8 (53%)
|
| Ave. number of different residues per sample |
0,47
|
4,6
|
3,1
|
| Ave. quantity of pesticide per sample (mg/kg) |
0,009
|
0,19
|
0,13
|
| Samples with residues above the maximum level |
0
|
5 (2,3%)
|
0
|
Info Box
Orientation Value for Organic Products
The application of synthetic pesticides in the manufacturing of organic products is not permitted, practically speaking (positive list from the EU Organic Ordinance). Besides the valid default level for pesticide residues ((in accordance with Regulation (EC) No. 396/2005)), which is also applied for conventional goods, there is no special, valid maximum level designated for organic products.
In view of the high measuring sensitivity of the detection methods, an organic product that contains detectible residues of plant protection substances needn't necessarily have been treated with a banned substance or interchanged/mixed with a conventional product. Therefore, in order to make a first evaluation regarding pesticide residues in organic products, the so-called "orientation value" of 0.01 mg/kg is used.
It is important here that the 0.01 mg/kg does not represent a limit value whose exceedance directly proves that a product had not been grown in accordance with organic regulations. Rather, it is a first indication or threshold above which a determination would need to be made regarding the source of the residues. In general, organic products produced in adherence with the rules are not expected to contain determinable residues above the orientation value of 0.01 mg/kg, even when taking drifting and environmental contamination under consideration.
Statistically verified residue levels that lie above this orientation value would, however, indicate that either the organic regulations were not followed, or that conventional wares were falsely labeled as organic. In such cases the analyzed samples are judged as fraudulent. The responsible organic controllers are then obliged to investigate the circumstances surrounding these increased levels.
Wild Vegetables
That "country potatoes" usually just refers to potato wedges prepared in a specific way, is probably known by one or the other consumer. However, worldwide and especially in South America there are many old potato varieties as well as some growing in the wild, although these have not yet reached our supermarkets.
But what about wild broccoli? This vegetable has meanwhile found its way into our grocery stores, farmers' markets and delicatessens. Other than perhaps expected from the name "wild" broccoli, however, it's actually the common broccoli* that stems from cauliflower that is the older variety. The "wild" broccoli vegetable first came into existence in 1993 as a result of cross-breeding common broccoli with Chinese broccoli (Kai-lan).** Other names for "wild" broccoli include baby broccoli, tender stem broccoli, or aspabroc. There are still more names, including protected trademarks such as "Bimi®" or "Broccolini®".
But take note! The name "wild" broccoli is also used for rapini (broccoli raab).*** This is a widely eaten vegetable, popular in Italy for generations, called "Cima di rapa" there. The Italian name is sometimes used in Germany as well, although the more commonly used names are wild broccoli ("Wilder Brokkoli") and asparagus broccoli ("Spargelbrokkoli"). This vegetable is mostly on offer at farmers' markets.
The shape of these two "wild" broccoli vegetables is longer than common broccoli (see photos). In terms of taste, the crossbred product (common broccoli with Chinese broccoli) is described as being much milder than common broccoli alone. In contrast, rapini can exhibit a slightly spicy and bitter note. It also tastes somewhat more like cabbage than is the case with common broccoli.
Illustrations 5 and 6: Broccoli (left) and Chinese Kale (right)
Illustrations 7 and 8: Wild Broccoli (Bimi; broccolini, left) and Wild Broccoli (Cima di rapa; turnip greens, right)
The situation is similar to wild carrots. Various other species of this root vegetable also play a role here. More specifically, the wild carrot (Daucus carota, subspecies carota) is a subordinate species of the common carrot (Daucus carota). The edible but pale root of wild carrots contain much less of the carotinoid pigmentation than the better known subspecies (Daucus carota, subspecies sativus).
In contrast, the strongly colored, non-orange carrots are often variations of especially older, re-discovered and newly taken up carrots. The shape and color of the roots can vary significantly, depending on the type of carrot. Some roots exhibit a dominant coloring via water soluble anthocyanins. They can range from light or deep red to a dark purple, causing them to look almost black. The taste of these strongly colored carrots is often very intensive. Carrots with orange or light yellow roots don't get their color from anthocyanins, but from the vegetable dyes in the group of fat soluble carotenoids. These carrots are considered to be very mild in taste. While orange roots tend to have higher levels of the carotenoid carotin, the yellow carrots mainly contain lutein, a carotenoid responsible for the yellow color.
Illustration 9: Colorful Carrots
Wild spinach, on the other hand, has little in common with common spinach (Spinacia oleracea L.).They are two completely different plants that differ both by genus and species. However, the young leaves of both plants can be used and eaten like common spinach. Wild spinach is also sometimes labeled as Good-King-Henry (Chenopodium bonus-henricus L.).
Illustrations 10 and 11: Common Spinach (left) and Wild Spinach (right)
Wild Herbs and Other Wild Edible Plants
Illustration 12: Herbs
As already mentioned, especially older, more common and commercially available herbs such as mint, rosemary, lavender, oregano or marjoram enjoy the "wild" label. These plants can exist freely in nature, without any breeding or other human influence. However, the plants or their products that are offered for sale are not usually those that actually grew naturally; these so-called "wild" products are also cultivated to some extent.
In addition, there are some herbs with names that can be easily misunderstood. One prominent example is Origanum vulgare L., labeled as "wild marjoram". Although this herb stems from the same plant genus as sweet marjoram (origanum majorana L.), what is actually meant is the generally known "oregano".
Illustration 13: Wild Herbs
However, there are also wild plants, while not commonly used, for which the use of the term "wild" seems more appropriate/fitting. The edible herbaceous plants (they don't get woody) referred to in this case can serve as a source of nutrition or medicine, grow in nature and exist without any intended influence by humans.
One popular example is that of daisies. Almost everybody knows them, but very few people would think of adding the small white/pink blossoms to a salad.
In earlier days, consumption and knowledge about the usage of such naturally growing plants was much greater and widespread than today. Not only, but especially, in times of food scarcity, these plants contributed to the nutrition of the population or served as a home remedy for treating common illnesses and other complaints. When eaten in smaller portions and mainly as taste enhancers, they were called wild herbs; plants eaten in larger portions were referred to more as wild vegetables. When used for home remedies, they were also called medicinal herbs.
Recently, the earlier uses of some plants have been rediscovered: sweet woodruff as a taste enhancer for homemade lemon soda, buckhorn or stinging nettle for a personal tea mixture, wild garlic for pesto or herbal butter, sorrel for soups, or ground elder as a vegetable side dish. These are only a few of the wild plants that are currently popular.
Before one starts to gather such wild herbs, however, it is advisable to find out about any possible risks of confusion (e.g. between wild garlic and the similar-looking but poisonous Lily of the Valley). A suitable location for gathering herbs is also important. Areas with high levels of environmental pollution that are near busy streets, for example, or designated nature reserves should be avoided.
Whether the increasing popularity of edible plants growing in the wild is due to a new trend of "wild food", or simply a return to former knowledge, more and more people are becoming interested in what nature has to offer. And that can be a healthy and tasty development.
Last but not least: wild mushrooms, wild honey, wild salmon and wild game
Illustrations 14–17: Wild Mushrooms, Wild Honey, Wild Salmon Filet
Similar to herbs, mushrooms growing in the wild are also gathered by consumers. Here it is equally important to have detailed knowledge both of mushrooms as well as their poisonous cousins. Moreover, one must also give special heed to protecting certain mushroom species.
Mushrooms are differentiated by (actively) cultivated mushrooms and wild mushrooms that grow throughout nature. The different species of common edible mushrooms are listed in the guidelines of the German Food Code for edible mushrooms and edible mushroom products.
Some edible mushrooms such as porcini and chanterelles only grow in symbiosis with living trees, so they can't be cultivated. Such mushrooms are only sold as gathered wild mushrooms. Other types of mushrooms such as champignon, oyster, or shiitake arise from the decomposition of organic substances, and can therefore be cultivated for market. Wherever possible, the mushrooms sold in markets are generally cultivated. Cultivation in isolated facilities is possible year-round, is more effective, and therefore less costly. The accidental conflating of edible mushrooms with poisonous look-alikes is also impossible here.
In contrast to cultivated mushrooms, wild mushrooms can be contaminated with heavy metals and radioactivity, depending on their type and location. They should therefore only be eaten in moderation.
Wildflower honey can only be made by bees that have collected nectar from wildflower petals that grow in the wild and haven't been cultivated. This can be ensured by only setting up the beehives in areas where wild flowers are predominant. According to the German Food Code guidelines for honey (see Info Box), wild plants are, in this case, all plant species found in places of origin that are not cultivated by humans. Appropriate areas in Germany today are in the Alp regions or low mountain ranges, for example.
For wild salmon and wild game it is also the habitat that determines whether the label "wild" may be used. Salmon labeled as "wild" must have been caught in open waters. Game such as venison or wild boar must be labeled as "farmed game", if the animals were raised in enclosures. A label of "wild game" is reserved for the meat of a free-roaming animal that was killed. In addition, for both farmed and wild game, the type of animal must be included on the label.
Conclusion
Wild is not always wild and there is no generally valid definition of the term for food. Whether an individual case thus refers to a specific, original plant species or to a plant that grew in the wild without any interference from humans, must be decided case by case. What is sure is that a label of "wild" does not automatically point to a specific method of farming, nor especially to organic farming.
Image Credits
1 bilberries-2559051_1920. by StockSnap, Pixabay
2 blueberries-7584443_1920 by 好梦藏, Pixabay
3 blueberries-3632707_1920 by Bruno, Pixabay
4 Wild vs. Kulturheildelbeere, Zechmann
5 broccoli-1238250_1920 by Robert Owen-Wahl, Pixabay
6 Kai-lan iStock-1403858540
7 Spargelbrokkoli iStock-841833252
8 Stängelkohl iStock-1365196068
9 Carrots of many colors, Wikipedia (public domain) and Agricultural Research Service
10 vegetable-6709755_1920 by НадеждаДягилева, Pixabay
11 Guter Heinrich iStock-2162226428
12 herbs-2523119_1920 by gate74, Pixabay
13 herbs-5140754_1920 by congerdesign, Pixabay
14 mushroom-7490922_1920 by Andreas, Pixabay
15 honey-1958464_1920 by Дарья Яковлева, Pixabay
16 Loch Duart Salmon, Market Hall, Rockridge, Wikimedia Commons (Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license)
17 deer-8052359_1920 by Linda Janes, Pixabay
Sources
1. Bundessortenamt, accessed on 04.11.2024
2. Deutsche Lebensmittelbuch-Kommission
3. UNECE, accessed on 04.11.2024
6. CVUA Stuttgart, Tränkle K., Rau J., Lebensmittelbetrug bei Waldheidelbeererzeugnissen, accessed on 27.11.2024
Translator
Catherine Leiblein
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